资料来源: 理性谈风月
在屈臣氏看到了曼秀雷敦抗痘护理爽肤水(Mentholatum Medicated Powder Lotion).
其实很早就在屈臣氏看到过曼秀雷敦的这个抗痘系列, 不过因为它家产品从来不标注成分表, 所以不太关注. 这次也是因为这款产品正好在做推广, 柜台上放着一大排, 所以在近距离观察了一下.
赫然发现, 原来曼秀雷敦抗痘护理爽肤水竟然是水粉结合的, 大半瓶透明液体加上底下的一小层白色粉末.
看到这款产品, 立刻让我想到了Mario Badescu的那款Buffering Lotion.
这款东西, 一直被宣传为治痘圣品, 好莱坞明星应急的瑰宝. 据说只要涂上一点, 痘痘第二天就好了. 虽然我对此比较怀疑, 不过这种三四百块的产品实在没兴趣买来亲自体验一下, 所以只能怀疑不能质疑了. 也研究过它的成分表, 似乎没有什么神奇的成分. 如果哪位朋友用过, 还请告知一下它的效果.
Ingredients: Deionized Water, Isopropyl Alcohol, Sodium Sulfate, Zinc Oxide, Hydrolyzed Serum Protein, Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein, Pyridoxine, Niacinamide, Panthenol, Propylene Glycol, Allantoin, Biotin.
跑题了, 还是说会曼秀雷敦的这款. 包装上提供的信息实在是有限.
包装说, 抗痘成分是Isopropyl Methylphenol,"能深入毛孔底部, 预防青春痘产生".
主要用于抗痘的成分大致都记得, 对Isopropyl Methylphenol却很陌生. 查了手头的两本护肤品成分词典, 也没有找到相关资料. 所以只能求助Google, 总算找到了一些资料, 具体的说明引用在文末.
原来, Isopropyl Methylphenol的确是一个抗菌成分, 但在护肤品中主要是做防腐剂使用的. 它在护肤品中的最高浓度是有限定的, 一般也就是0.1%. 用作防腐肯定可以了, 但是否能够足够用来预防细菌导致的青春痘呢? 这是个疑问.
更何况, 在我看来仅仅是抗菌, 是不足以抗痘的. 毕竟很多的青春痘是角质层代谢问题造成的, 一般必须配合水杨酸、维生素A酸这样的成分才能治本.
再说控油, 包装说"含吸油粉末, 即时吸走多余油脂, 令肌肤时刻保持清爽, 预防青春痘形成".Isopropyl Methylphenol有一定的收敛作用, 就其本身应该就有一定的控油功能了. 至于那些白色粉末, 不知道是什么成分, 莫非是高岭土? 这类成分的作用的确是吸油, 虽然不能让你的油脂分泌减少, 但是却可以让你的皮肤看起来不那么油–许多控油粉底使用的也是类似伎俩, 只不过成分可能更加高科技一点. 不过单纯收敛或者吸油, 其实对于青春痘的预防效果还是有限–不过控油很容易立竿见影, 应该让大家会有比较好的心理安慰.
至于保湿和细致毛孔的作用, 前者对于抗痘产品不过锦上添花, 没有也无所谓；后者没有写作用的成分是什么, 所以无从分析.
总体来说, 这款产品的功效暂时还是让我很迷茫的, 远不如C&C那款含有0.5%水杨酸的爽肤水来得那么简单明了.
不过它水+粉的配方却让我颇感兴趣, 正好家里的爽肤水用完了, 就买了一瓶用用, 过段时间再来说使用的观感–当然, 无论治痘还是预防, 爽肤水从来都是配角, 主要还是靠含有药性成分的精华乳液, 所以这款爽肤水, 最坏打算也就使用着玩了.
ISOPROPYL METHYLPHENOL
Isopropyl Methylphenol (IPMP) is an isomer of thymol (primary component of volatile oil from labiate plants), which has been used for centuries as folk medicine.
In 1953, a method for industrial manufacturing of Isopropyl Methylphenol was developed, and its properties including bactericidal and antioxidant actions have been studies. As its favorable physicochemical properties, excellent efficacy and mild action characteristics have been recognized, it has come to be used widely today in drugs (for general use), quasi-drugs, cosmetics and other industrial fields.
Characteristics:
· It is almost tasteless and odorless. It has mild astringency which is a characteristic suitable for cosmetics
· It has almost no irritant action and does not induce skin allergy at 2% concentration
· It acts uniformly on various bacterial, yeast, mold and some viral species
· It absorbs ultraviolet rays with wavelengths of 250-300 nm (peak absorption wavelength 279 nm) and shows antioxidant action
· It is highly stable against air, light, temperature and humidity and retains its actions over a long period of time
· It is a highly safe compound used in drugs (for general use), non-medical products and cosmetics
Antibacterial Potency:
Isopropyl Methylphenol has been confirmed by pharmacological and clinical studies to show strong bactericidal or antibacterial activities against parasitic microorganisms such as the Trichophyton. Actions on influenza virus have been confirmed (200 ppm).
Antioxidant Activity:
Isopropyl Methylphenol suppresses oxidation and prevents degradation of co-existing materials. This property, along with the bactericidal activity, is advantageous for preservation of the quality of preparations including cosmetics in which large amounts of materials that are likely to degrade by oxidation such as oils and fats, perfumes, vitamins and hormones are contained.
An experiment on antioxidant activity was conducted where Isopropyl Methylphenol was added to 50 g of paraffin wax at 0.01% and 0.04%, bubbled with air at 160°C at a rate of 2 1/hr, and the time until the peroxide level reached 50 (induction time: an index of qualitative deterioration) was measured. It was found that Isopropyl Methylphenol delayed the oxidation induction time by 3 hours at 0.01% and by 9 hours at 0.04%.
Environmental Effects:
Isopropyl Methylphenol is an isomer of thymol which is contained in plant components. It is a compound with a relatively low molecular weight not containing a metal, halogen or sulfur atom. It exerts no adverse effect on microorganisms when diluted below their minimum inhibitory concentrations. It is composed of Carbon, Hydrogen and Oxygen and does not generate dioxins under ordinary conditions.
Safety:
The safety of Isopropyl Methylphenol has been confirmed by various tests.
· Single dose toxicity
Route Animal LD50
Oral Mouse 6,280 mg/Kg
Intraperitoneal Mouse 470 mg/Kg
Subcutaneous Mouse 184 mg/Kg
· Mutagenicity
The results of Ames Test performed according to the standards of the Labor Safety and Hygiene Law were confirmed to be negative.
· Others
1. Isopropyl Methylphenol has been confirmed to have a mild irritant activity and no sensitizing activity by cutaneous primary irritation, ocular mucosal irritation, other cutaneous sensitization and cutaneous photosensitization (including phototoxicity) tests in rabbits
2. The safety of Isopropyl Methylphenol has been confirmed by a 30-day and 90-day repeated dose toxicity studies (oral) in rats
3. The safety of Isopropyl Methylphenol has been confirmed by negative results of endocrine tests using human breast cancer cells and yeast. (Responses to nonylphenol and benzoate ester, which were examined as controls, were positive)
Uses:
· Cosmetics
Preservative for creams, lipsticks and hairdressings
(Standard for use by the Ministry of Heath an Welfare: 0.1% or less in rinse-on preparations)
· Drugs
Drugs for bacterial or fungal skin disorders, oral disinfectants and anal preparations (3% or less)
· Quasi-Drugs
External sterilizers or disinfectants (including hand disinfectants), oral disinfectants, hair tonics, anti-acne drugs, toothpaste, etc. (0.05 - 1%)
· Industrial Uses
The disinfection of air-conditioneers and rooms, antibacterial and deodorization processing of fabrics, various antibacterial and antifungal processing and others
1. Interior Disinfectants:
The interior can be disinfected effectively by spraying a 0.1 - 1% solution (prepared by diluting an emulsion or alcohol solution of Isopropyl Methylphenol to a concentration appropriate for the target microorganism) over the floor and the wall at about 25-100 ml/m2.
2. Sanitizer for clothes, interior items and furniture:
Excellent antibacterial, deodorant and antifungal effects can be obtained by attaching appropriate preparations to clothes, beddings, carpets or curtains by spraying or immersing or treating the materials of fabric by a special fixation procedure
Incompatibility:
· When Isopropyl Methylphenol is used concomitantly with non-ionic surfactants or macromolecular compounds such as CMC, its bactericidal activity may be reduced as it is contained in or absorbed on micelles of the surfactant. Enhancement of the effect by agents such as EDTA2Na or substitution for anionic surfactants is needed
· Isopropyl Methylphenol forms an eutectic mixture and liquefies when mixed with camphor or menthol by intense pestling. Prevent liquefaction by using oil absorbents such as porous silica gel.
· Isopropyl Methylphenol may be inactivated or made less efficacious by salt-forming compounds in an intensely alkaline environment
